Venezuela
A few notes and photos for my first DIY low-budget trip, with my friend Enrica, the one who started me to nomadism, and her sister Flavia.
Enrica had previously traveled with “Avventure nel Mondo” (the Italian version of “Intrepid”).
Let’s say that we compensate each other, because she has already some experience but does not know any foreign languages, I know foreign languages, but I have no experience.
Safety
I remember so many ugly faces in Caracas, and a gun at the bus station in Ciudad Bolivar.
I remember the men who looked at us as if they wanted to scan us with x-ray
I remember Enrica say hard-nosed “Piss off” to the first taxi driver who tried to cheat us with prices as soon as we got outside the airport.
I remember shady guys who, like vultures, surrounded me at the bus terminal in Ciudad Bolivar, while Enrica was in the restrooms with her sister who was afraid to go alone, and when she returned, after an eternity, it seemed to me, I told her “never leave me alone again with all our luggage in a place like this.”
I remember we stayed in Caracas in some hotel recommended by a local friend, and we met her at dinner, in a safe area, she was worried about us
I remember that I felt more normal when four guys from Brescia, met in the Canaima camp, confessed they were afraid to walk in Caracas after dinner.
Henry Pittier National Park
Rain forest. Since I had been in Australia a few months before, in Queensland, I was not so much impressed
Puerto Columbia and Choronì
Two beautiful colonial towns with many colorful houses, hammocks hung in the gardens, a beautiful guest house with blue and white tiles in the bathrooms. So many people on the waterfront, with cars doors opened wide and huge stereos in the trunk pumping loud music, and everybody around dancing.
Morrocoy Park
Beautiful beaches, and many local families on vacation.
Endless hawkers on the beach, which offered a lot of groceries and snacks.
Ciudad Bolivar and Canaima
Bus break-down in the middle of nothing, whole night spent next to a fat guy who was pointing his elbow against my ribs, and though this was bothering me, I slept anyway. Lot of time was lost, Enrica’s camera was stolen.
Horrible city, hotel infested with cockroaches. $ 200 for a 2 nights / 3 days Canaima trip after having bargained invain with all the agencies in town. I reprimanded for quite a lot of time when I discovered that we would have slept in hammocks under a tin roof, while the agency promised me a bed. I reprimanded much less, and almost even rejoiced when I found out that our Campamiento had a view of the Angel Falls, our hammocks had mosquito nets, and the bathroom had a real western toilet, and it was spotless. Something not so granted, under those circumstances.
We moved by motor boat on a Rio Orinoco tributary, we trailed with ankles in the mud under a pouring rain, we visited a country with primitive and wild beauty, we washed ourselves in the rivers, without soap of course, we trudged in the rain forest while the guide showed us the medicinal plants, we passed behind the Salto Sapo. I remember even now the sense of panic I felt when the water jet, still less imposing on the side where we crossed the fall, crushed my head : it took my breath away.
I remember that I slept very well in the hammock, big rats running in the evening along the poles under the shed, green bugs as big as my hand, the humidity and the clothes which never dried, I remember that was one of the best experiences of my life.
I remember I flew on a small airplane with a pilot who looked like Bud Spencer, under a very dark sky. Enrica laughed, Flavia was terrified. I remember I was so tired that I fell asleep and I forgot to be afraid.
I remember that on the way back from the camp, to the Ciudad Bolivar civilization, Enrica went inside a 3-star hotel to change some money, and I slipped in their marble bathrooms like a thief, to wash my face with soap, I looked at myself in the mirror and I thought “fuck, I am really in a bad state” but I was laughing.
Los Roques
Survived to small plain this time as well!
The afternoon flight costs less, then, arrived at the airport, we waited a few hours before leaving.
When landed, the search for posada was pretty tiring, first because rooms were very expensive, and second because we had no reservations.
We managed to find a room at Chez Judith, $ 30, where we were served all the time spaghetti with a can of tuna. When we complained, we were told “for this price, what do you want…”
All other posadas were much more expensive, the owners organized the excursions for their guests, taking them on the various cays with a refrigerator full of food, and the umbrella, which, if I think now, is a little bit funny.
Regarding us, however, we had to make everything by ourselves, look for a boat, eat only plain bread, forced to take shelter from the sun even behind the blades of grass, given the scarce vegetation. I got burnt.
I did not expect such a beautiful sea , it was really worth going there!
Isla Margarita
Nothing special. Swedes met in Canaima recommended us the town of Juan Griego, renowned for its sunsets : I have to admit I have not been disappointed.
I would say negligible with no regrets.
