UDAIPUR DIY
The bus leaves me in the middle of a road. I do not think it’s a terminal, and I have no idea where I am. It’s about 5.00. Waiting for sunrise, sitting on a bench in front of the only open kiosk, a sweet hot tea and Odette’s biscuits comfort me
Then, I take a rickshaw to the Pichola Lake.
It is dawning. I stroll downhill through the narrow streets of the Lal Ghat with my bags, attracting the attention of several traders, from the threshold of a guesthouse they call me to show me rooms but I guess this area might be very noisy. Even if busy in trying to look for a place to rest, I realize that the city waking up in front of me, with its elegant cream-colored haveli and laced arches is beautiful
Considering the high number of hotels, restaurants, travel agencies and souvenir shops, I realize that it is very touristic.
Crossing the pedestrian bridge over the lake, whose banks are full of garbage and not entirely pleasant odors
I move towards the Hanuman Ghat, which according to the Lonely Planet is much quieter. Indeed, here there is almost no shop, zero traffic, and some guesthouses, but the nicest cheap ones, like the Panorama and Dream Heaven, are already fully booked.
So I settle for a dirty, damp and gloomy room at Lakeshore
Upstairs, however, on the roof, there is a very nice bar with a stunning view. You lie down on the pillows and you admire the view, which, from my point of view, on this side of the lake is better than what you see from Lal Ghat
On some forums, including the highly recommended “Indiamike” there are very negative reviews on this guesthouse, and his manager, described by some as “crazy.” To be more precise, I would say he is a borderline.
He gives me the permission to visit the only decent hotel room, the 1000 rupees one
It ‘s definitely better than mine, but unfortunately already booked. The owner promises it to me then for the next day, unless knocking at my door 30 minutes later, to inform me that it has been reserved by some Japanese. I protest but he is adamant …
During my two full days stay, I will realize that Udaipur is really popular, not only with foreigners but also with Indian tourists.
The royal palace is lovely, unfortunately there is an incredible rush. Udaipur, as Srinagar, is called the Venice of India
Certainly, the tourist flow is similar to the one in Venice. The narrow alleys of Lhal Ghat are clogged with cars, rickshaws, carts, cows which worse the situation creating traffic jams and honking concerts.
In stores beautiful souvenirs are exposed, first of all jewelry of semiprecious stones, or silver, essential oils, paper objects, puppets, textiles, tapestries, handbags, pashminas that cost little more than in Ladakh, but still so cheap.
I get acquainted with a girl from Paris, she also travels alone. I would definitely recommend her pension, the Pratap Guesthouse, a palace owned by a former army colonel, we have breakfast in the living room, between damask chairs and elegant dark wood furniture with family photographs; a white marble staircase leads to the upper floors. Chloé’s room has white walls freshly painted, and it’s impeccable, with a very comfortable mattress. It costs 900 rupees, worth it all. I also believe it is recommended on the Routard guide. It overlooks a small square, in the Edelweiss Café area.
Chloé has more or less my same itinerary, but, unlike me, has pre-booked trains and accomodations. We will meet also in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, giving appointments for breakfast on cafès mentioned in both guides (she has the Routard, I have the Lonely Planet).
After having rested a bit, I decide to pamper myself for a few hours. Just before the pedestrian bridge on Lhal Ghat, there is a laundry where I bring my jeans already filthy; the schizophrenic one offered to wash them, demanding an exorbitant price; when, without even answering him, and looking at him furiosly, I outrun him with my bundle of dirty clothes under my arm, he shouts at me that all the laundry is done in the lake. I do not think he would have given me a different treatment .. Close to the laundry, I see a hair salon. For 600 rupees I have an haircut and a facial massage. This last operation, performed with traditional methods, will give me for a month a fantastic soft skin. I won’t never get the same results in my town, in spite of the machineries and sophisticated products. Another activity which I find very amusing is to sit at restaurants terraces, and observe the people. The area around the Jagdish Temple is very animated. Apart from the traffic jams due to the proximity of the Royal Palace, the lake, and shops, I enjoy observing the colorful crowd of Hindu pilgrims who visit the temple, and a large group of pseudo-sadhus and beggars, sitting in the stands next to flower vendors.
With Chloé I visit Sadna, a center controlled by an NGO, which promotes and sells products manufactured by women from nearby villages.
A rickshaw takes us out of town, to Ahar, and its cenotaphs. We are the only living creatures, apart from the pigeons, to wander among the white domes.
In the afternoon, by boat, along with other tourists, we take part to an excursion on Lake Pichola. On its banks, people are washing themselves, their dishes, clothes, even my jeans, I presume … We skirt Janigwas Island, occupied by the gorgeous Lake Palace Hotel, where some scenes of a 007 film starring Roger Moore were shot, then we reach Jagmandir, surrounded by walls carved with elephant statues. Here is a restaurant, very expensive for my standards, surrounded by gardens with fragrant frangipani trees, fountains, towers and very romantic view of the lake from the windows adorned with romantic white curtains
I read on some guides that many people choose to get married in Udaipur, I’m not much for this kind of unnecessary frills, but I must admit that the atmosphere is very romantic.
I am abusing of the word “romantic”, but the whole thing is really very romantic! 🙂
The view of the city and the royal palace, especially at the sunset hour is indeed magnificent, but it is very similar to the one I have, for 500 rupees, from my hovel at the Lakeshore Hotel.
Among other things, 500 rupees is a robbery for that dump, but the crazy one has always ignoned my requests for a discount.
As in our Venice, the quality/price ratio here is very bad. However, just like Venice is a must-see for those visiting Italy, Udaipur is a must for anyone visiting Rajasthan. Crowd, confusion, noise, inflated prices, nuisance, disappointments: is the price you have to pay.
In any case, and despite everything, sophisticated, decadent, superbly elegant, stylishly superb, charming, full of grace. I liked it a lot.
