Tupiza DIY, August 15 and 16
Tupiza is a town in Southern Bolivia which is normally not much considered, except by those who continue to Chile or Argentina. I chose it mainly because: 1) it allows me to make a stop and rest after the 4000 mt of Potosi, and before going up again towards the south western highlands. It is in fact at 2900 mts height 2) it is nice, with many things to be seen in the surroundings, contrarily to Uyuni 3) it is said that the organized tours from here are better than those starting from Uyuni 4) tours from Tupiza reach the Salar de Uyuni at sunrise, those departing from Uyuni arrive there at around 12.00 or 13.00, usually.
We arrive in Tupiza at 1.00 on August 15, on a comfortable cama bus from Potosi, the company is O Globo, it was recommended by the Bolivians lady which shared the taxi to Potosì (120 BOB). I booked by phone the Hostal Los Salares, warning that I would have arrived very late. The hostel is a bit out of the center, but only a 5 minute walk across the bridge, and, if one is not afraid of howling dogs, it is not necessary to take a taxi. Despite the late hour, however, the bus terminal is full of touts.
The hotel rooms are clean, but very cold, there is in fact no heating, other peculiarity of Bolivians cheap hotels.
After resting a few hours, after breakfast I do some of laundry, I pay the excursion to the Salar (1300 BOB), book a horse riding around Tupiza, starting at 14.00 (100 BOB), then I go for a walk in the city. I have forgotten today is the feast of the Assumption, which always involves some fiesta, in South America, like in Italy. While I’m hanging around watching some little shops, I hear from afar a mixture of drums and trumpets, and walk over to the main square. More than a procession I would say that it’s a kind of carnival parade, with people dancing and waving strands of beads that adorn the male costumes. Even today my theory “one town you go, one party you find” is confirmed.
I then go to the market for a budget and big meal. 6 BOB for a rice soup which also contains meat, and another 2 BOB for a papaya
Then it’s time for the horse torture. I’ve never ridden one of these quadrupeds before, and it seems very strange to start to do it now, because if I fell the first decent hospital is at 10 hours of dirt road, but now I have confirmed, and cannot go back.. 🙂
I am given a docile beast, but it still feel my nervousness, and so it does whatever it wants. It seems that it is doing it intentionally, as soon as it feels I am handling my camera, it begins to trot placidly, making me fall in complete panic. It’s hard to admit it, but I think to be an incompetent in this sport. The localities we visit are the Quebrada seca, Puerta del Diablo, Valle de los Machos and Cañon del Inca, which we can also be reached on foot, I discover with dismay. I am unable to ride, and in the meantime take pictures, and unfortunately the scenery is magnificent and deserves to be immortalized, there are red cliffs and cactus, like in a western movie landscape
As mentioned, you can visit the area on foot, but without a guide you risk getting lost or wandering in circles. While I try to keep a certain attitude on the rump of my horse I meet three girls groping blindly who ask about the direction to our guide, and I am not sure if I feel more pity for them, uncertain, thirsty, dusty, but very firm on their legs or for myself in this ridiculous role of amazon. Unfortunately, I don’t enjoy the trip, and I can’t wait to dismount and walk again.
In the late afternoon I go around Tupiza looking for a restaurant, the market has closed already, dozens of restaurants offer improbable pseudo Italian dishes, no one serves local comida . The Bolivians are concentrated in a kind of fast food whose fried oil smell pollutes the whole neighborhood. Although omnivorous, I do not dislike the vegetable proteins. Some signs “vegetarian comida” attract my attention. I do not pretend tofu, or other refinements, beans or quinoa would be ok, and instead overcooked ravioli and sticky cheese pizza seem to represent the essence of the vegetarian dish at Tupiza. Avoid like plague Trattoria Belvedere, lemon escalopes cost 39 BOB.
Tomorrow morning the great adventure begins. The fourth member of our expedition is blocked some strikes in Villazon, so we leave in 3, guided by Victor and Elvis, with the background of ugly music of the 80′, like “Chery chery lady” , Modern Talking, repeated ad nauseam, which will torture my ears over the next four days.