Machu Picchu DIY
If you have not been here probably you can’t understand what I mean … I had a similar feeling when I visited the temples of Angkor in Cambodia, but probably in my opinion MP is even better.
The tour as a whole is very expensive, but worth every penny. It ‘s something that can not miss in the life of a traveler.
Some practical information.
I organized 100% by myself. Anyway, in Cusco there are a lot of agencies that advertise MP at very low prices. 100 USD by car, 130 USD the complete package with train.
I can’t understand how one can reach by car MP since everybody say there is no road, it probably it means they leave people somewhere and then they walk along the railroad tracks.
130 USD is certainly a good deal. According to my experience, though, (I bought day trips around Cusco to go to the Sacred Valley, Moray, Maras, Sacsayhuaman, etc. etc.) I would be afraid to spend just 2 hours in MP, as in the other trips we rushed from place to place with very short stops everywhere. 10 minutes at Maras, 30 minutes at Pisac market, and so on…
I have also to point out Cusco is as well full of agencies that advertise flight to Lima at 40 USD, and then when you go inside asking for a precise quotation prices rise at 120 USD …. So I wonder if the Machu Picchu package tour at USD 130 might be real or just bullshit ..
I bought train tickets from Inca Rail website (50 + 52 USD from Ollantaytambo). http://incarail.com/
Once in Cusco, I had to change the voucher at a ticket office located in Plaza de Armas (or one of the other places indicated on the voucher)
The bus from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo costs 45 PEN return. It’s a tourists minivan, but there is also a Cruz del Sur ride (28 PEN one way). Buses wait for passengers in the car park near the entrance at the Ollanta station, close to the Peru Rail and Inca Rail ticket offices.
I bought the ticket at http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/ (Spanish version, since the English one sometimes is blocked) and wrote an email to book one single room at the Hostal Los Caminantes in Aguascalientes (40 PEN).
The bus from Aguascalientes to MP costs 18.50 USD (round trip), it is best to buy your ticket the evening before leaving, especially if you want to leave at 5.30 to go to see the sunrise. The lady at the ticket office is particularly fussy about the look of dollars, she only would like to be paid with brand-new notes. She refused a couple of notes in perfect condition.
There are long queues already at 5.30, anyway, even considering the waiting time at the entrance, you can still arrive in time for sunrise. It is not a real dawn with pink sky, because the sun peeps out of the surrounding mountains quite longtime after having been rising from the horizon
On the entrance ticket it is clearly stated that you can not bring food and bottles at the site. Only water flasks are permitted. However, no one checks, and I saw bottles of all sizes in the backpacks pockets. I had my water flask (1 lt, inadequate). Just be careful not to leave litter and trash around. I have also brought a sandwich and snacks, as the restaurant at the entrance is part of a luxury hotel, and prices are inaccessible. There are restrooms only at the entrance, in case of need you must then go back.
I have booked the climb to Montaña, because the Lonely Planet said that the view from up there is better than the Wayna Picchu. Until some time ago the climb was free. The Montaña is located at a much higher altitude than Wayna Picchu (3082 vs. 2700 mt)
The climb is a staircase, very irregular, it’s tiring, but nothing particularly dangerous or difficult. 
Absolutely worth the effort
I think it’s appropriate to spend the whole day at Machu Picchu. On the other hand, arriving at 6.45, visiting El Puente del Inca, then the Montaña or Wayna Picchu, and then the central part without a hurry, it absolutely takes the whole day! Hoping it’s sunny!
On rainy days, it’s forbidden to climb at Wayna Picchu because 1) it is dangerous 2) there is no scenery to see.
As a matter of fact I thought I would have found more crowds. Of course it is almost impossible to take pictures without having nobody on the way, however after 15.30 the flow decreases drastically, you can hear the silence, interrupted by the sound of crickets and cicadas, and it is wonderful. Really, I did not want to leave.
A few words about Aguascalientes, or Machu Picchu Pueblo. There would be no reason for it to exist, if not for the stream of visitors which passes for the brief time necessary to get off the train, take a bus, eat something and maybe buy some souvenirs waiting for the return train. Thus the logic of “milk the cow how much as you can” prevails.
Prices are so much higher than average. I chose Hostal Los Caminantes, 40 PEN, not very well reviewed, just because it was much cheaper than anything else.
The reception is bleak, and there is musty smell, however the rooms are not bad, spartan but clean. The only “con” is in my opinion the location, in front of the rails, where groups of men stop to load / unload goods only in the middle of the night.
It’s a good rule to inform reception about early check out. Although I was careful to advise I would have left at 5.15, I found the door locked in the pitch dark, and had to knock at several doors to find the right person with the key.
Restaurants are ultra expensive. On Avenida Pachacutec prices decrease gradually as you go up the stairs, and it is better to first check that there are no hidden costs such a percentage for the service (which normally in Peru no one applies, at least in cheap restaurants that I attended)
Nothing in particular to report about Inca Rail, the train leaves and arrives on time. Insufficient storage space.
I return from Aguascalientes tired, sore, dusty, thirsty, hungry, burned. Happy