October 12
After a hearty and delicious buffet breakfast served in the poolside bar, a taxi drive us back to the airport, this time at terminal 3, destination Aswan. It seemed stupid take the Abela train, which is slower and more expensive.
Usual tussle of taxi drivers at arrivals atrium. It’s really hot, I think about 35-36°C, but not overwhelming. We bargain 40 EGP for a ride on a 7-seater rusty Peugeot, mite festival fur seats, and soon we reach the Isis Corniche entrance
The hotel, among the economic range, boasts the best location, the only one directly on the Nile bank, so quieter than those which face the busy Corniche, but still close to the souks, the shops, the station, and restaurants . The rooms are neat, the bathrooms a little outdated, perhaps, but very clean. Or room, nr. 210, overlooks the garden. The breakfast buffet, included in the price, is served in the restaurant with balcony directly on the river. It’s so beautiful to start the day here
When in town, we eat our meals at two terraced restaurants on the Nile, Aswan Moon and Emi. The first, very romantic, lined with typical bright red fabrics, and soft lights in the evening, is clearly better, although slightly more expensive. A fish dish with rice costs about 50 EGP. After some rest, we go to the station to check the timetables to Luxor, departures at 15.00, 17.00, the 9.00 and 13.30 ones are prohibited. It’s really impossible to get on, because the guards only let the Egyptians pass through the barriers. Back to the hotel, we visit the souk. Nothing affects me in particular, trinkets, T-shirts, the usual things, in short..
October 13
By public ferry (1 EGP) we cross the river and reach the Elephantine island, and the Nubian village of Koti, where we cross the narrow sandy lanes zigzagging among the goats, and a lot of garbage .. Most of the houses looks rather decrepit, many does not seem finished, others are made of mud bricks, a few of them are painted in bright pastel colors
An old man who claims to be the village chief invites us into his house, I suppose to sell us something, we invent some polite excuse, and head to the Aswan Museum and the ruins of Abu.
Premise: I am not an archaeologist, internet and books are full of information about the various dynasties, kingdoms, battles, gods and historic events. What I write are only my humble personal considerations.
The museum in Aswan (60 EGP entrance) is located inside the house belonging to the architect who built the dam, the Abu ruins are in the back ground. The beautiful house, in blue timber, with its graceful porch with incomparable view, should need some restoration.
The exhibition is very simple, compared to a standard museum, the same difference between a country church and a cathedral, but there are many interesting exhibits, and even a mummy. Unlike what happens in most renowned archaeological exposures, we are the only visitors, immersed in silence, away from the crowd, no people in front of us who obstruct the view, no mess.
All those treasures seem to be displayed there just for us
Out from the villa, and visited the new part of the museum, we wander among the Abu ruins, admiring beautiful views of the Nile. On the shore in front of us is the Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie stayed
Back to the eastern shore, we walk along the Nile on the tiled promenade, ignoring the calls of boatmen and horse-drawn carriage drivers. Across the road, however, there are arcades and shops which sell souvenirs at fixed prices, much lower than at the souk. Despite the touts (we just need to get away a bit from the center to get rid of them), walking in this area at sunset is a paradise, observing the peaceful flow of feluccas
We try to peek inside portholes of the luxury cruise ships moored to the shore.
October 14 – ASWAN
The next day, at 3.00, we leave in convoy for a day trip to Abu Simbel (90 EGP), and the Temple of Philae. The whole trip, cost 150 EGP excluding entrance fees, was booked through our hotel. But we know of people on our minivan who purchased the same at Keylany Hotel for 70 EGP
I do not know how to express the sense of grandeur that emanates from this temple, I free my imagination and fantasy.
Philae temple, almost unknown, is, albeit small, very impressive, as it is located on an island. To get there, we pay the entrance (50 EGP) and then, negotiating, a boat. Our group consists of about 10 people, and the ferry costs 10 EGP each (return)
October 15 – Aswan -Luxor
We linger longer than usual on armchairs in the bar of our hotel, waiting for noon to check-out
Dodging taxi drivers, horse-drawn carriage drivers and various troublemakers, we walk straight to the train station. Since it’s early, we sit on the floor in the hall, watching the comings and goings of the passengers, and conversing with two New Zealanders