Arequipa DIY
Arequipa is a beautiful and welcoming city.
Beautiful I think is an objective fact, the glance on the elegant square bordered by white colonial buildings, the impressive cathedral, and the cones of volcanoes in the distance is impressive.
Welcoming is my opinion, first of all in the sense that facilitates a lot to us foreigners the art of going around. Especially for those arriving from Puno and Bolivia. We are here at 2500 meters, without shortness of breath, without heavy clothes, there’s even a supermarket full of good take away meals in the Plaza de Armas.
The centre is comfortably walkable. By public microbus you go anywhere. 1.80 PEN to the bus terminal.
Secondly, it is welcoming because of the extraordinary charm of its monuments, and some of its cobbled streets
for its numerous bars, music and lights
My stay here was shorter than expected, due to the bad weather.
I was supposed to arrive at midnight, and instead I delayed until 15.00 of the next day, due to a polar cold wave.
I think it is the case to tell in details all the story, in order to inform all those who intend to travel here in August.
The connection to Arequipa, from both Cuzco and Puno, passes through Juliaca, which in July and August can be hit by snowfalls and frosts. Before taking a night bus, then, look carefully at the weather forecasts, and avoid leaving if they forecast snow.
Left from Puno with a cama Julsa bus we reach the Juliaca terminal. After a stop longer than usual, a young lady comes on board saying that, due to snow and ice (I did not realize it, but I look out of the window and I see it is snowing) it is dangerous to travel with such a big bus, and so we will all be transferred to a “normal bus “, which is less risky. The mentioned one is not a replacement ready for the occasion, but a regular bus that on purpose has been waiting for us, so we go up and sit where we find place. Just outside the city I realize that the road surface is frozen. I try to sleep, but I realize that every now and then the bus slides. Then, it stops. At least 6 hours.
There is no way to go on, the road is blocked by a truck which rolled over. The driver for long times turn off the engine, to save fuel, so there is no heating. We are stuck at more than 4 thousand meters, outside is bloody cold, same on the bus. Upon arrival of the sun, peeing becomes a problem because there are no shelters, and the line of waiting cars is impressive. No one arrives to remove the truck. So it works here.
The driver intends at first to wait for the sun to be warm enough to melt the ice, but then fortunately, perhaps pressed by the people’s exasperation, sends everybody out of the bus, makes us walk past the truck, and then, slipping, oversteps it, leaning dangerously. The road is a sheet of ice, I feel unstable to walk even if I wear hiking boots, I do not want even to think about the smooth tyres these trucks and buses have. Despite the huge delay, the driver stops for over half an hour for breakfast in a restaurant in a small village, then we get stuck in a huge traffic jam on the highway. There are no more overturned trucks, it’s just that heavy vehicles are going on very slowly, and nobody cannot overtake them.
In short, a nightmare! As soon as we reach Arequipa, I would like to kiss the ground!!
We go by taxi from the bus terminal to Plaza de Armas. The weather is so warm that I can stay with t-shirt only, it does not seem true. We ask to be stopped at a corner of the square, and walk in the opposite direction, still turning back to look at the three cones of volcanoes that rise behind the cathedral, in the warm light of the low winter afternoon.
The guesthouse search phase begins. We go down the Calle Alvarez, and reach the Misti House, whose owner, two days ago, wanted a deposit by bank transfer ..! ask for the price again, he does not remember about me, and offers 10 PEN less. Meanwhile, I notice a well-known local restaurant, with set menu, low prices, the Casona del Sabor, which I shall attend in the coming days.
Almost in front of it there is a hotel that seems too nice for my budget, Hotel Arequipa Center, and instead they offer me a single at 55 PEN, pretty and full of light. I think the price is 60 PEN
From the common terrace I can enjoy a magnificent view
Dinner at Inkari Restaurant, 20 PEN, in the beautiful pedestrian street just behind the Cathedral. Fixed menu for tourists, not bad
The next morning, under a bright sun we visit the Santa Catalina Monastery, entrance 35 PEN. Some guides offer their services, but since there are explanatory signs scattered in key locations, some also in Italian, they do not seem indispensable. The walls are painted in bright colors that contrast with the pure blue of the sky
I think this is the most beautiful monastery I ever visited
From the towers there is a magnificent view over the rooftops and surrounding mountains
I have lunch with takeaway food bought at the Plaza de Armas supermarket (12 PEN)
After lunch I walk in the Yanahuara neighborhood, less touristy. Later, I admire churches and monuments. I get info about tours to the Colca Canyon, and on bus lines departing for Cusco. The weather forecast for the next days still are not very nice, I tell my misadventure to some travel agents, and they say that is not so unusual in this season. Unfortunately, they sell mainly the most expensive companies, like Cruz del Sur, Ormeno, etc. and don’t know anything about the cheap ones.
So I decide to go to the bus station, 1.80 PEN with micro. Here I discover a huge number of companies reach Cusco. I choose CIVA, 40 PEN for a cama service, great price. Cruz del Sur, or the same route wants 135 PEN (!!), and a smaller company, such as San Martin, with standard seats, 40/50 PEN. Julsa asks for 60 PEN but due to my bad adventure I discard them.
I have dinner at La Casona del Sabor, 6 PEN, a beautiful room with vaulted ceiling covered with stone, flat screen television that broadcasts stupid programs, with half-naked soubrettes, just like in Italy, and local typical comida, poor ingredients, not raw fish and fusion cuisine ..
Trendy restaurants abound in this city, and very famous chefs work in some of them, but it seems to me a waste of money to spend for food more than what I spend for sleeping ..
After a period of 2 days / 1 night at the Colca Canyon, I return to Arequipa at 17.00 on 8/28, dinner again at the Casona del Sabor, still 6 PEN, on this occasion it’s time for a bistek alla chorilla .
Morning, 7 PEN taxi for the bus station.
I leave at 8.00, on time, the CIVA bus is very comfortable.