Cook Island DIY
Rarotonga, exotic, mysterious name, evokes the thought of remote atolls, drum rolls, the lapping of waves, beaches fringed by palm trees lulled by the wind, sensual and wild dancing.
It has resounded in my ears since 1997, when, in Tahiti, I hear it to be pronounced for the first time by my roommate, who had been there one year before. Wherever we are, the cumbersome comparison with Rarotonga, and above all, the Aitutaki Lagoon impend over her.
The latter, the most beautiful in the world, according to Tony Wheeler, founder of Lonely Planet
COOK ISLANDS VS. FRENCH POLYNESIA
For anyone who happens to pass in those far lands, the comparison is a must. Better Polynesia, or the Cook?
Bora Bora incorporates in one environment Rarotonga’s flourishing nature and a turquoise lagoon (though not as beautiful as Aitutaki) bordered with atolls. It seemed to me that, Polynesia was just a little bit more beautiful, although some Tahitians do not agree with me. And no doubt, however, that the Cook are:
1) much less visited, crowded, built
2) much cheaper
3) warmer and more welcoming from the human side
It’s also possible that, being Polynesia one of my first long-haul travels, I have mythologized it .. In any case, if I had to go back over there again, one day, I would choose the Cook Islands. Polynesia is now over exploited. Cook still have to be discovered, especially the Outer Islands, which do not see almost foreigners.
But it is not absolutely true that Cook Island are the 50 years ago Polynesia, because the whole world has changed. In the 60’s Folco Quilici wrote that in Manihi there were no cars, phones, guest houses, hotels. Which certainly, now, exist at Raro and Aitutaki.
I remember that Papeete, 14 years ago, was already immensely busier than Avarua today, just to make a comparison between the two capitals. Avarua virtually consists of a main road and two or three roundabouts (I do not think there are even traffic lights), a few restaurants and a few shops.
WHAT I LOVED MORE
My solitary walk on Maina Motu, in absolute silence, observing nests of the “tavake” and their chicks
No annoying sound, no sign of civilization, only the cries of birds, the roar of the waves on the reef, the gentle rustling of the wind, the mountains of Rarotonga
The fantastic lagoon in Aitutaki
Aitutaki sunsets,
The dances at the Te Maeva Nui, the national holiday
the kindness and friendliness of the people
WHY GO THERE
See above.
The beaches are not huge, in general, but the sand is blinding white, the sea is wonderful. I have often benefited of total absence of human beings. In the afternoon, at low tide, spectacular sand stretches form in the Aitutaki’s lagoon…
… in many occasions blessed by the weak presence of human beings .. It also depends on personal taste, I appreciated it very much.
WHY DO NOT GO THERE
For those interested in nightlife … Well, no nightlife … In Avarua there are a couple of bars where you can drink some beer, and very few shops, closed from Saturday at 13 until Monday. Outside of Avarua, there is nothing to do at night, there are no pubs, nothing. The only shows, in the hotels restaurants, therefore very touristy, are the so-called “Island nites”, that’s to say traditional dances (variable costs from 60 to 120 NZD, including dinner. The best value for money is the show that is held at Te Vara Nui Village, Muri, it just costs 60 NZD).
CHANGE
1 NZD = 0.57 EU
HASSLE
From my point of view, the only nuisances are represented by the roosters singing. Fairly and democratically, they disturb sleep anywhere, even in expensive resort. Although sometimes annoying, they do not seem a deterrent strong enough to prevent the visit. If I really have to find something negative, all those hours on a plane….
POPULATION
Very kind, friendly, open, merry, sociable. Almost everybody will greet you in the street. No one has the habit of pestering foreigners to sell something. It often happened to me, while I plodded on the main street looking for a rental bike, to be offered lifts by scooter drivers .. And when, with my bicycle, I stopped at intersection, undecided which way to go, many people came to see if I needed help.
If you will build with some local a relationship friendly enough to involve some fond greeting, be advised they kiss only once. Therefore, do not turn the other cheek.
Obviously I did not know this practice, but people were so kind to minimize my gaffe, and even provide at my place a justification “in Tahiti and in France you kiss on both sides of the face.”
CULTURAL EVENTS – FOLKLORE
I was lucky enough to stay at Cook Islands during the celebrations of the Te Maeva Nui, the independence anniversary.
On this occasion they organize events, trades with foreign countries, and competition games among the islands. The Outer Islands inhabitants arrive in Rarotonga to perform in various disciplines, the shows are held at the National Auditorium, the entrance costs between 25 and 10 NZD. Participants prepare months and months before the costumes and choreography. The contests take place in an atmosphere of cheering stadium, each one supports his own countrymen. Nothing to do with Island nites shows at hotels, these performances are ways better, and more felt.
It’s possible to attend for free the drums playing competition, which ends the celebrations.
Unfortunately it is forbidden to take pictures and videos. Wild and sensual hips shakings, colorful costumes, straw, woven palm leaves, feathers, shells and beads decorated headgears, harmonious singing, beautiful long-haired girls, flowery wreaths, muscular young men, colorful and exciting festival .
These are some video found on the web:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Qmfk4FjGy8&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpI17V0QK4A&feature=related
The missionaries were able to eradicate the free love celebrations, but fortunately not these magnificent dances.
A local woman told me that a few years ago the teaching of Maori language has been reintroduced at school. For a long time, however, the Maori themselves stopped to speak at home with their children the language of their ancestors; Now fortunately things are changing.
.
RELIGION
The large amount of churches scattered here and there catches the visitors’ eye, Roman Catholics, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Baptists, Presbyterians, Adventists of the 7th day, it is as if they had divided the nation at a table.
The conversion is relatively recent, and from my point of view, consists of a mixture of superstition and fundamentalism. Maraiti, the owner of the guesthouse where I stayed at Aitutaki, told me that she refuses to go to Mass, because it’s just something to show off, an attempt to appear more elegant than others. She prefers rather to stay home and read a book. Everywhere on Aitutaki boards oppose to the Sunday flights. When I asked Maraiti, what this has to do with religion, she prudently changed the subject.
FLIGHTS
Pacific Blue (Virgin Group) – 552 NZD.
7/26 Auckland 18.30 – Rarotonga 00.20 (always on 7/26) Flight DJ163
8/8 Rarotonga 01.15 – Auckland 04.00 (+1) Flight DJ162
It’s not by chance if I indicated above the dates of arrival, it is a very important particular to be kept in mind when planning the Intercontinental flight to and from Auckland. The time zone difference between Cook and New Zealand, which would seem to be minimal, is -22 because of the international date line change. So, you get to Cook the day before, and then back to New Zealand not at 4.00 of the same day, but of the day after. You have to pay food on board of aircraft, but it’s not particularly expensive. About my Intercontinental flight: I talk about it in details in the New Zealand travel diary, for the moment, enough for you to know that I paid it 1079 Eu, and it is a Emirates Flight
Air Rarotonga – 376 NZD
7/29 Rarotonga 15.30 – Aitutaki 16.20 GZ618
8/5 Aitutaki 09.00 – Rarotonga 10.20 GZ613
In some web forums people talk about 99 NZD last minute flights, to be found maybe a week before departure at the Rarotonga agencies.
I think they are fiction. I constantly monitored the website to wait for these deals, and it never happened…
Onward morning flights from Raro and the afternoon ones from Aitutaki are the most expensive, because they are bought or booked by agencies for day trips package tours. The best prices can be got traveling in other time slots.
Some planes are really small (8/10 people), and are quite unstable. Suboptimal pressurizing in the cabin can cause ear discomfort.
HOTEL, GUESTHOUSES, RESORTS
There are all prices accommodations, from 40 NZD to 1200 and beyond. From family-run pensions (the best if you search for contacts with the locals) to the mega luxurious villas.
My choices went to to:
Rarotonga
Aremango Guesthouse
At Muri Beach. A bit disappointing given the excellent reviews, especially from the cleaning side (and I can assure you that I’m quite a tolerant person). Bathrooms are shared, it seems to me they just wipe them, surely in 4 days they never change the towels. Being a cheap place it is customary for visitors to use their own, but at least for the hands one they could make a little effort … .. As for the kitchen. There are numerous signs that invite guests to wash and dry the dishes, and leave everything in order. It makes me wonder why they do not do the same with the floors. The garbage cans in four days have never been emptied, it is true that they were not full, but at least the waste food one, albeit tightly closed, was not a nice view… … Some hens constantly wandered around the kitchen, because nobody, except me, shut the kitchen doors, the birds shitted on the floor, and the poo remained there for hours till when, a German host who had a child, less careful than the grown ups to slalom, cleaned them. Despite another sign invited people not to use shoes in the house, I refused to go barefoot, and used thongs.
Good points, the rooms are nice, there are free bicycles and fruit for guests. Tidy place, every room has a locker assigned to stock food supplies, and a shelf in the fridge. Free water is supplied from a dispenser. Cost: 40 NZD
Muri Lagoon View Bungalows
Walked in . Second choice because, after returning from Aitutaki, the Aremango was fully booked. Although it was not perfectly clean, it was still a decent place, cheap.
The bungalows are spacious, bright, too bad in the kitchen cupboards there is a terrible smell, I do not know what. The view of the lagoon is partially covered by palm trees.
I had noticed them walking in the days before. The property also manages the Muri Beach Club Hotel, a middle luxury hotel, only for over-18. Cost: 95 NZD
Transfers to / from the Raro airport are usually organized by the hotels, the cost is 15/20 NZD, alternatively the bus costs 6 NZD
Aitutaki
Amuri Sands
Only two bungalows on the west side of the beach, which means beautiful sunsets
Stunning view even at day time
Very well maintained, screens on the windows do not have a even a small crack or hole, under and above the doors are placed rubber seals perfectly adherent on the floor, preventing access to crawling insects.
Spotlessly clean, available, outside, a drinking water bin and a lot of papayas.
Only annoyance: the roosters, very troublesome here.
Price: 100 NZD, Free transfer from the airport. Mark, the owner, very kind person, waiting for me at the airport, and put around my neck a fragrant “ei” the typical flower necklace, according to the local customs.
Amuri Guesthouse
Given the price, I spend at Amuri Sands only 4 nights, and then, for the remaining 3 I move to this delightful guesthouse, run by Nga and Maraiti, two adorable people.
Shared bathroom, Maraiti cleans and changes towels, all the time, the washing machine is always in action. Communal kitchen very well equipped, new appliances, water and fruit available, ditto for tea, coffee, milk, sugar and toast bread.
My room is simple and clean, the bed comfortable. Quite spacious, with plenty of shelves
I never figured out in this kind of places the managers or owners are also required to help the guests in the various reservations related to their trip, like in the hotels.
Maraiti, as soon as she notices I am in trouble because, as usual, I do things at the last minute and I can not find a place for a lagoon trip, immediately helps me.
This will be the most pleasant stay, a Dutch backpacker and I are the only guests, we spend a lot of time, in the evening, talking with the owners, gossiping about the various inhabitants of Aitutaki. The place is so small that even tourists, after a few days, know everybody. We converse also about local customs; in short, a beautiful interaction that added tremendous value to my trip. Besides the above mentioned discussions above religion, unlike his wife, Nga is very religious (meaning he goes to Mass on Sundays), the landlord introduces me and the other traveler in the canoeing secrets. It’s a very popular sport here, since the early settlers of the area were Asian origin populations who arrived with their pirogues crossing the Bering Strait.
The Aitutaki Lagoon, being the Cook Islands largest one, is very much used as a location for the competitions, and I happened to attend workouts sessions, during my boat rides.
Price: 40 NZD. Airport transfer : 7 NZD
Here too, by simply crossing the road and the rugby field, beautiful sunsets
FOOD / MEALS
To save money, I almost always cooked my meals. Simple stuff, a little because I am lazy, a little because the food choice is quite limited. Expensive prices in Rarotonga, even more in Aitutaki. Best shops Foodland and CITC at Avarua. At 6-11, Muri, I usually bought homemade muffins and scones … The only vegetables available, with the exception of Foodland, which had more choice, are onions, tomatoes, potatoes and papayas, sometimes three in number. Philadelphia type cheese, unavailable in Aitutaki (there is only a kind of cedar cheese) costs 5 NZD.
More variety of fruits and vegetables available also at Avarua market, 1 papaya 1 NZD.
Only tested restaurants, The Raviz, Avarua, Indian food takeaway lunch. A full meal for 6.95 NZD, very abundant.
In Aitutaki the biggest food shop seems to be the Heineken store, (here just onions and potatoes) the only one with sliced bread, and sometimes a baguette. Bread box costs 4 NZD, one yogurt 2.50 NZD (and I put it back on the shelf), dry butter biscuits, the least expensive ones, 3.5 NZD.
TRANSPORT
In Rarotonga there is a bus line that runs through the island, on an hourly basis, in both directions, from 7.00 until 23.00, with an hour break for lunch. On Sunday buses stop at 16.00.
A ride costs 4 NZD, 6 if you have luggage. You pay the driver on board. multiple tickets are available, a bit discounted.
At Muri it’s impossible to find bicycles, the only available are the electric ones, at Budget (19 NZD per day). Scooters seem to cost 15 NZD per day. Cars 60 NZD (I asked for prices at Budget and Pacific Cars)
Given the size of the island, bicycle is enough, but almost everybody prefer scooters.
Even in Aitutaki bicycles are a very precious commodity, only Rino Rentals have some, cost 8 NZD per day, only 2 of them are decent, the others left are wrecks. I recommend to go at 8.00, when they have just opened, to grab the two best ones.
COMMUNICATIONS
Our cell phones do not work. It’s useless also to buy a local sim. There is no agreement between the local providers, Kokanet, and ours.
We must therefore rely on the Internet, which is quite expensive in Aitutaki. 10 NZD a hour, 6 NZD half an hour at Spider Shop. The hotel obviously have wifi.
At Raro there is a great internet shop at reasonable prices, and fortunately is open until 23.00! It’s the Telecom Centre, in Tutakima Street, the one where the Cooks Corner terminus and Bergman and Sons pearl shop are, but a bit further, next to Atukuwa Grounds.
Another alternative, Kia Orana prepaid cards. With the 20 NZD one I could talk five minutes in Italy (on a fixed number), for mobile I think is more expensive.
LANDSCAPES/BEACHES
RAROTONGA
The island’s interior is gorgeous
the beaches are small, the most beautiful are located to the south or to the east
In the Muri lagoon, however, it’s enough to move to a small motu to have sun all day. You can reach it by kayaking, or swimming, but I noticed in the morning the current Is very strong, even if the sea is calm
Some luxury hotels give free kayaks to their guests, 1 hour hire costs 15 NZD, 2 hours 25 …
There is only one road which circumnavigates the island perimeter, and then a kind of inner incomplete ring, which is the ancient road. Here virtually nobody passes, and it is pleasant to ride observing the landscape, the cultivated fields, the magnificent vegetation, the marae, the Maori cult buildings.
Also on the main street, however, the traffic is very low. In short, a very livable reality.
On Muri Lagoon they have built many accommodations for all budgets, and is certainly the most visited part. Many agencies (including Captain Tama) organize trips among the motus.
Other beaches are very popular: southern of the Rarotongan (a luxury hotel) area, and in front of a store called “fruits of Rarotonga” there is a good snorkeling place, and then Nikao, northwest, close to the Parliament.
Also good snorkeling in the area called Black Rocks.
Rather rocky, and closer to reef, the beaches at northeast
Given the presence of “mountains”, the weather is quite variable, and rainy. I must say that in six days I spent on this island, there was only one with really bad weather, for the rest the sun alternated to clouds. Not bad, then. You can also do a lot of hiking and trekking, completely cross the island from north to south via The Needle, the highest peak.
In Avarua there is a very interesting market, but they close at 13.00, I think. Here they sell souvenirs, and there are food stalls.
Rather disturbing, the “tsunami evacuation routes”.
I have walked in some of them, in Muri, to go up a bit on the hills and enjoy the view on the lagoon .
Cook had been tsunami alerted after the earthquake in Fukushima, but fortunately nothing happened. A cyclone, Pat, struck Aitutaki in February last year. I saw that some houses have not been rebuilt.
AITUTAKI
The Lagoon with a capital L, the perfect lagoon, which has fully satisfied my (high) expectations.
Obviously it is not only beauty, because it is inhabited by warm and friendly people. An island that, even more than Rarotonga, being smaller, can be easily explored by bicycle. I stayed in the west of the island, just because here there were the cheapest places. The only part where it is possible to swim at every hour of the day is in the area near Matriki Beach and Tamanu. Despite this, there are very few people around. The sea is turquoise, with small coral formations already in the shallow water, with colorful fish, not many, but still pleasant to see
Going north, however, where the Paradise Cove is, a kind of pass has been built, and again here it is possible to swim at any hour of the day.
In the south west, in front of Maina, the sea is a beautiful turquoise color, but there are no beaches, and the road becomes a dirt road that runs along the sea
It’s very pleasant to walk here, because there is practically no one, and even on the internal paved roads, for example where there is Tupuna restaurant, you meet very few people ..
In the eastern part of the island, (I reached the dock of the village of Tautu), the sea colours are not too inviting, although I can already see, nearby, the magnificent lagoon
Quite different is the situation in Ootu Beach, located on the stretch of land that juts out into the lagoon. Here there are some mid-level accommodation, Samade, Hinano Beach, Ranginui Retreat, and the cheapre Josie’s Beach Lodge (30 NZD), which I had considered, before switching to the Amuri GH. It’s good I decided otherwise, is really a dump !!
The sea here is very calm, its colors seem to anticipate the enchantment that I will find in the lagoon
It seems to me (I did not enter into the water, I just walked around on the beach, with my bike) some passes have been dug here as well, it is certainly deep enough to swim, being the bottom sandy, there are no chances of snorkeling.
Unfortunately, I experience the voracity of mosquitoes which bite me in broad daylight, and on the beach !! This did not happen on west coast.
In front of the Ranginui Retreat there is a motu called Akitua, where the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort, an expensive hotel, has been built.
The strait can be crossed by kayak, swim or even walk at low tide in the afternoon. Alternatively, a hotel boat is constantly shuttling between the two banks. In this way, people are obliged to register at the front desk. I heard that non-guests are asked to pay 50 NZD to access the motu. I thankfully have not been asked for money.
The part of Akitua facing Ootu Beach is leeward, and mosquitoes bite me as well.
In the afternoon, low tide produces scenic stretches of sand
A few steps are enough to cross the island, and reach the windy side, no mosquitoes, and great views on Angarei, the front motu.
Here the beach is more rocky, closer to reef, plenty of palm trees are lashed by a strong wind, there is virtually noone.
Between the two sides of the motu, some lines of bungalows, some of them overwater type. I try to peek inside. I read later on the web the reviews are not exciting. But there are beautiful hammocks strung between palm trees in the shade, and even a chess board
On Aitutaki there are also some lookouts. With a little walk (bring water), from Maungapu, you can enjoy a beautiful view. The trail starts in front of the Paradise Cove
CRUISES IN THE LAGOON
The guides recommend to penniless backpackers to save on food and accommodation, and invest money on the lagoon tours, suggesting if possible to try more operators, because each of them offer a different itinerary and different time to be spent on the different motus.
So, I participated at two cruises, the itinerary is more or less the same, but the snorkeling places and motu where lunch is prepared are different. I saw people eating at a table set in the shallow water, in both cases I ate under a hut, in the shade. Each company has its own wood hut on a different motu. This one will be, inevitably, the one you explore more, while on the others you will spend less time, doing what you want (I have always chosen to walk around, rather than lie on the beach).
All excursions in the lagoon cost 85 NZD and includes lunch, towel use, and snorkeling equipment.
The drinks have to be purchased separately. It seems to me a coke costs about 5 NZD.
In the two barns where I have been, on Maina (Te King) and Honeymoon Island (Kia Orana Cruises), which are among the most beautiful ones, there is the possibility to sleep. Tour operators ensure that here there are no mosquitoes or sand flies, and in fact while I was there I never got bitten. Instead, I heard that another motu, Akaiami, is infested by small biting insects.
Shacks are of course very basic, mattresses placed on wooden loft, directly on the ground, but I think it’s worth it, a kind of novel Robinson Crusoe experience.
I know, from the web, that real cottages (with no electricity) can be rent on One Foot Island and Akaiami.
The islands are inhabited only by birds, particularly seagulls called “red tailed tropicbird”, “tavake” in Maori
Many operators do not work on Sunday. I decide on purpose to make the first lagoon excursion exactly in the day when some decide to obey to the 7th commandment, hoping to find less crowd.
Kia Orana Cruises is one of the few who does not sanctify Sundays, so we are in 5 on a small quick boat.
The first stop for snorkeling is in a coral garden with some purple giant clams, and a few fish. The sea is a few meters deep, and there’s a terrible current in reef direction
It’s a wonderful day with a clear sky, a little windy, the sea is slightly choppy.
After the coral garden, we arrive at Honeymoon Island, where we are free to wander around, waiting for lunch
There are some kitesurfers, but there is beach for everyone. In the distance we see Maina
We eat grilled fish, kumara (the typical sweet potato) salad, papaya, and various fruits.
After the stop, we cross the short sea stretch to Maina Island. Here there’s really no one, I walk away from the Dutch family and circumnavigate the island calmly. It really seems to be Robinson Crusoe .. Ah, what a pity I cannot sleep here at night !! If I had not already paid and booked the Amuri Sands I definitely would do it !! The only living beings are the tavake, these graceful sweet-eyed seagulls, which seem made up with eyeliner. Now they are nesting. This will be one of the most moving experiences of the holiday.
After Maina, we go to Rapota, certainly the most scenic, with its black volcanic rocks. Here, too, it’s just us, alone. Wonder of wonders!
On the front motu they are filming another edition of “Survivor”, and the access is prohibited.
Finally, One Foot Island. The last boat tourists goes away when we arrive, only some locals are on the beach. The bungalows for rent are empty.
This is the most photographed and famous motu in the lagoon, and also the most requested for weddings
For the second visit to the lagoon I choose Teking, perhaps the best known tour operator. Other agencies are Bishop Cruises and Aitutaki Adventures.
Another wonderful day, this time flat calm sea. Over 7 days spent at Aitutaki, I caught seven days of complete sunshine. This time we are many more, compared to Sunday. But we are also much more looked after. Teking and his men, in turns, come into the water with us, for guided snorkelling sessions, making sure all the time that everything is ok, and following the worst swimmers.
They are also much more generous providing information about the history of Aitutaki, and the legends.
We visite the same motu.
Honeymoon Island, this time without kitesurfers
We have lunch on Maina.
We stop again at Rapota … and One Foot Island.
We also pass close to Akaiami, but without landing.
The passport stamps on Maina and One Foot Island cos 5 NZD each.
Beside cruises, it’s possible to hire a water-taxi to go the favorite motu. Cost is 50 NZD, generally there are two races, one at 9.00 and the other at 13.00.
I suggest 13.00, because of the low tide, it is more scenic.
These transports must be booked in time, otherwise there is no longer place (which happened to me).
Wet and Wild is the most famous company in this field. Its competitors are Black Pearls Charters, Captain Pan’s, Baxter Fishing Charters.
Important.
Check in time if, during your stay, a cruise ship is scheduled to arrive. In this case, book well in advance all your activities, otherwise nothing will be left for you. In fact, when the ship arrives, all boats of the island (including diving) are made available to the cruisers (which pay the same trips at higher prices)
FINAL THOUGHTS
Maybe because they are very remote and little known here in Europe, the Cook Islands, due to their inaccessibility, seem extremely fascinating, the true archetype of the South Pacific atoll.
It’s certainly not a kind of journey that I can afford to do every year, and probably for this reason I felt a special satisfaction when I was back home. If I were a cat I would purr.
The perfect lagoon, Aitutaki, leaves an indelible mark, and a certain form of addiction, difficult to detoxify .. the only remedy is … inevitably … return ..