Provence DIY
Wednesday, July 1
I leave in the early afternoon. My car does not have a GPS, so I will orientate with a Provence Michelin road map, plus another generic one about France I already had at home. Living close to the French border, my home region has already been included in the above mentioned, so I do not need anything else.
Although the ViaMichelin website would recommend to take the highway, I opt instead for the shortest route, and will go through Cesana-Sestriere-Monginevro. The part of downhill with switchbacks is rather difficult, I had done it before, but only as a passengerl!
For the first night I booked through Venere the Hotel Bel Alp in Manosque. Since I did not plan anything, this town seems a bit “the navel of Provence”.
The purpose of my mini-trip is essentially admire the lavender fields, which are at the moment at their flowering peak.
I reach my destination without any problems. The Bel Alp, cost € 39, is conveniently located in the city outskirts, not particularly pleasant, but near the highway. My room faces the back, on a somewhat wild garden. The window of my room is still very well soundproofed. I sleep very well.
The room is cute, small, and very clean. Great choice, then.
Thursday, July 2
I leave at about 10.30 in the direction of Apt. Along the way, I am impressed by a small village, Cereste, very relaxed atmosphere, which is my first taste of Provence. Bright sunshine, clear air, flower pots hanging from lampposts, elderly people looking like Jean Gabin sitting at the bars and sipping pastis. Some foreigners, but only a few ones
I am directed to Roussillon. At the village entrance, I have to leave my car in the Saint Jacques parking, cost € 2.50. I can’t proceed into the center because it is market day. Along the main street, I notice some private rented rooms at 40 €, which is quite a good price
The entrance to the Path of Ocres costs € 2.50, and the route is very scenic. It is possible to follow two different paths, red and yellow, the first is slightly longer, but nothing difficult, despite the heat (the temperature is about 34 degrees). The color combinations are really impressive.
After the tour, I take a walk in the town. The market consists of 4 stalls selling trinkets to tourists and local fruits and products at scary prices
I must say that even in épiceries I saw peaches at 5 € per kg .. I buy 2 quiches in a bakery, spending € 4.40 in the whole, so I decide I will purchase my lunch supplies at the supermarkets.
By the way, there is a lot of people around sitting on benches in the shade who are eating their own food, mostly canned tuna and mozzarella ..
My poor car is an oven, I drive to Gordes with my butt practically sit on a grill
Even if I stop only one hour or so, I have to pay € 3 in a car park located at the beginning of the village. Alternatively, I should park it very far.
Gordes is one of the excellences in the “perched villages” category, and attracts visitors from all over the world. After wandering a bit, and refreshing myself with a good mug of tea in one of the small bars overlooking the castle, I get directly to the Abbey of Senanque..
… which, I must admit, is wonderful. Unfortunately the weather, nice until then, gets worse and worse. Threatening clouds gather in the sky. The abbey is surrounded by some lavender field. If compared to the ones I will see later they look tiny, but at the moment I still don’t know it, so I am prodigal with dozens of shots.
At the abbey shop, people flock to buy typical local products, mainly honey and soap. Back in the car, a thunderstorm bursts. Waiting for the rain to stop, I look at the Routard guide to figure out where to spend the rest of the day. The guide tells of exceptional lavender fields from Banon, which is not far away, to Revest du Bion
I have a short stop at Simiane la Rotonde, another perched village, less famous than Gordes but not less fascinating; there are only a few people around in the narrow streets, it is as if we felt as the owners of a treasure that fortunately we have to share only with a few lucky ones
From Simiane to Banon, here are the first outposts of lavender announced by the Routard. They are, indeed, spectacular.
But the best is yet to come, after Banon, pretty village, it is a riot of lilac and purple
The best thing is to take the secondary paths, those used by the tractors, away from the main road
I step in an enchanted world, where the only audible sounds are the songs of birds, the chirping of crickets, and the buzzing of bees. Sometimes a weak wind wraps me in a clould of lavender scent, I feel carried away as if on a flying carpet in a fairy-tale. The spell lasts until Sault
About one km outside the village, I see a hotel sign, Hostellerie Val de Sault. The owner is a famous chef. Since too expensive for my budget, I am taken by the chef himself to another property, a bed and breakfast called Ville Yvette, where a lovely room with superb view costs 70 €. It’s really a romantic place. The room are nicely decorated, with ethnic furniture, ornaments, pillows lined with exotic fabrics. The bathroom is remarkable.
I have dinner at the hotel restaurant, a bit expensive, although the menu is very fine (54 €).
Friday, Jul 3rd
I wake up early, I stop at Ecomarché (roundabout before entry Sault) to buy honey (not particularly convenient compared to the one sold in the shops), and then fruit and sandwiches for lunch. Always next to the supermarket there is a store of cosmetics manufacturers, La Savonnerie de Provence, where I buy souvenirs for my relatives
The town of Sault is nice, from a viewpoint I can admire great view on a purple ocean. My destination today is the plain of Valensole. Near Oraison, beautiful sunflower fields, the only ones I will see during the trip. On the D15 road, near the sign indicating the Valensole location, endless fields of lavender appear to the eyes of the astonished passers, alternating with fields of wheat
I cross the town, directed to Riez, and Puimoisson
The Routard Guide indicates other notable tracks on the small D108 towards Saint-Jurs
At a road sign indicating “La Blache”, which should be a cottage or something similar, again I do a detour and I immerse in the middle of the lavender fields. Out of the car, it seems to swim in a purple sea. Quiet and perfect peace. Saint Jurs is truly tiny, perhaps too tiny. I stop for the night at the hotel Le Panoramic, at Palud sur Verdon
I am the first guest of the day. The hotel is empty. I say to the receptionist € 75 is too much, showing deep dissatisfaction and intention to leave, and magically I get the low season price, € 53. At the evening I have dinner at Palud, at the Hotel Le Provence restaurant, mentioned, with good reason, on the Routard guide. Delicious dinner, 21 €.
Saturday, Jul 4th
The lady at the reception recommends not to miss the right entrance to the Path of Cretes. I do not have to follow the directions to downtown, but pass beyond the town, arrive to the Auberge des Cretes, and start from that precise path. In the other case, however, after a while the road becomes one-way.
The ring is about 23 km, with numerous well-marked parking areas where I can enjoy a breathtaking view.
I travel back later on the D952 road to return to Moustiers, and visit the village. Prior to this, I will stop along the way to admire some views that I missed yesterday. Lake Saint Croix is so green that enchants me and I make a detour to walk on its shores
I arrive at Moustiers around 12.30, some free parking lots are strangely empty, and, as a further blow of luck, I find even a place in the shadow
I dedicate 3 hours to visit this town, including the lunch break at the Hotel Belvedere, where I spend little money compared to other restaurants (7 € for a generous portion of omelette with green salad).
The visit to the Chapel of Notre Dame de Beavoir impresses me particularly. The construction simplicity, the utter lack of glitz and high-quality materials, the silence, its location and difficult access made me grasp the mystical and religious side that normally can’t perceive visiting other too crowded places of worship, like the French or Italian Cathedrals full of noisy tourist
I do my last shopping session in a souvenir shop, and then reluctantly start driving back home. The intentions is to cross the Col de Larche, through Digne and Barcellonette, after the hard time at Monginevro. I reach Barcellonette at around 19.30, with good weather conditions, I think it’s foolish to spend an additional € 50 for a hotel if I can be in my home bed in two hours, so I decide to go on.
The crossing of the pass seems easier than the Monginevro, from the French side is a breeze, on the Italian side there are some downhill hairpins (18 to be precise), but at least, compared to Cesana , the road is wide!
I’m home at least half an hour late than I expected, better than nothing ..
As general considerations, I think the quality of what I have seen is superb, taking into account that the lavender fields were in full bloom … It should be said that the French, much more than us Italians, are more capable to magnify their artistic heritage. A pleasant weekend, in short, an experience to be repeated, taking into account that I do not live too far away