VICTORIA FALLS 2016
CHANGE (updated July 2016)
The Zambian currency is the Kwacha (ZMW)
1 EU = 10.78 ZMW, 1 ZMW = 0.0891Eu.
In Zimbabwe, however everything has to be paid in USD, even in supermarkets.
EXPENSES
This is a sum of the costs in both countries.
Food: 74.60 ZMW + 28.39 USD
Transportation: 30 USD taxi from the Zimbabwe border to Victoria Falls, 40 USD taxi from Victoria Falls to Livingstone, 80 ZMW taxis in Livingstone (60 return downtow to the falls, 20 from the guesthouse to the bus terminal.
Accomodation: 358 ZMW 1 night in Livingstone, Le Patino Guesthouse + 56 USD for 2 nights in Victoria Falls, Victoria Falls rest camp.
Excursions: 50 USD, 30 for input from the Zimbabwe side, 20 for Zambia
Visa: 20 USD for Zimbabwe, 50 for Zambia (single entry in either case)
Total: 291.70 Euro approx
TRANSPORT
I could not find any combi from Kasane to the border, so I had to use normal taxi. The various hotels may organize transfer shuttles, but being alone it was not convenient. In Victoria Falls, the waterfalls are within walking distance, if one spends the night in the city center, from Livingstone a car is necessary, because walking is too far. A taxi called from my pension would have costed me 10 USD only one way, a collective taxi was 60 KMW return. From Livigstone to the waterfalls I had no problems, on the way back all the drivers wanted to rip me off
CLIMATE
Temperature is about 28/30 ° C during the day, cooler (but I only needed a fleece) in the early morning.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) – Victoria Falls Rest Camp, 28 USD per day for a permanent tent. Chosen because in the city center, and because it is least expensive. The tents seem to have seen better days, and some have broken zippers. In fact, I asked to be moved because the one initially assigned to me had several problems with its hinges. The shared bathrooms are clean and functional, unfortunately there are a lot of mosquitoes. The only flaw: the lack of equipped kitchens. In any case, comfortable, close to supermarkets, restaurants, shops, and a 10/15 minute walk to the falls. At night I fell asleep lulled by their roaring in the distance, beautiful.
Livingstone (Zambia) – Le Patino Guesthouse, 358 KMW a very pretty room with ensuite. Conveniently located in the center, 3 blocks from the Livingstone Museum. Friendly staff. Even here, no kitchen. But I could pre-order meals, which were then delivered still warm. Good and plentiful food. Breakfast included.
COMMUNICATIONS
Wifi was working im my Livingstone guestouse. Given the short stay, no point in wasting money on SIM cards.
FOOD
Considering the lack of kitchens, I can understand it in the guesthouse, but it is unforgivable at the campsite, I had dinner for 3 evenings in restaurants.
Victoria Falls
Mama Africa, very popular, with live music, I have nothing to complain about, with 10 USD I ate a rice and vegetable curry, expensive but good. My safari-mates instead were ripped off, ordering grilled fish, which turned out to be overcooked, dried up and almost inedible.
In Da Belly, Victoria Falls Rest Camp restaurant, according to many one with the best quality / price ratio. They serve various game meat, oryx, warthog, etc. at 14 USD, I ordered fish and I was fine.
Livingstone
My pension did not have a restaurant, but nevertheless proposed a list of foods at reasonable prices. With a few hours in advance I ordered a chicken curry and mashed potatoes, specifying the time at which I wanted to dine. Tasty and very good. 65 ZMW
SHOPPING
After the crazy prices of Botswana here there are some reasonable options.
Victoria Falls: the shops are too expensive for me, so I shopped in the various cubbyholes close to the Elephant Walk. Sellers are troubling, everyone will want to drag you inside to see their products, promising they are the cheapest in town. In one case I was almost kidnapped. Bargain hard
Livingstone: quite a big choice in the Mukuni Park curio market. Here I finally managed to find African fabrics to use as tablecloths, 4 USD. The vendors are pushy, but not as heavy as in Victoria Falls. Also here you have to haggle.
IS IT WORTH TO GO THERE?
Absolutely. This is the reason why I decided again to organize another trip in Austral Africa after having beeng in South Africa 18 years ago. Victoria Falls was the point form which I built the rest of the trip. Falling asleep hearing the roar of the falls is priceless. An incredible feeling.
ORGANIZATION OF THE TRIP
Fortunately there is not much to organize. To avoid troubles I just prebooked my accomodation.
RIPS OFF / SAFETY / VARIOUS HASSLES
Victoria Falls is now absolutely safe.
As I said, just nagging sellers and knavish taxi drivers. All activities are very expensive, you really feel like a milking cow
Beware of baboons, very aggressive on the Zambian side of the falls, do not feed them and do not carry any food. No monkeys on the Zimbabwean side, they told me they have been killed.
EXCURSIONS
Here are the prices of some of corollary activities. Helicopter flight 15/30 minutes 150/285 USD. Small plane flight 15/30 minutes: 180/360 USD. Sunset cruise 55 USD. Dinner cruise 70 USD. Rafting 150 USD (from 8.30 to 14.30). Canoeing same price. Zip line 70 USD. Gorge swing 95 USD. Canopy tour 53 USD. Bungee jumping 160 USD. Bridge swing 160 USD. Game drive 100 USD. Game walk 100 USD. Night game drive 140 USD. Chobe game drive 170 USD. Hwange day trip 300 USD. Horse riding 85 USD. In most cases, in addition to the prices mentioned you also pay the entrance fee to the park (15 USD) Still closed the Devil’s Pools, due to high the water level. In any case, another 100 USD approximately
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE VISIT
Some people say the falls from the Zimbabwe side have more to be seen, and the Zambia side has more to be lived. I liked more the Zimbabwe side.
Some considerations on the Zambian side. The observation front is smaller, and there are less lookouts.
Here is a map kidly supplied from Livingstone Tourist Office
In both countries, it is only allowed to walk on the front side of the falls, reaching the edges (left edge in Zimbabwe, right edge in Zambia, having the waterfalls in front). The opposite side, where the river precipitates in the gorge, belongs to Zambia. This is where you find the famous Livingstone Island and the various pools, inaccessible according to the warning signs. Fines are in fact provided for those who cross walking on the rocks in the point shown in the following picture
Surely you will see some lads who will call you, from the opposite bank, to propose to guide you to the pools. The park rangers say that you will be fined if you accept their services. I also heard that this guys initially will ask for a meager sum, then at some point will threaten to abandon you if you refuse to pay some additional money they claim.
I spent all day, from 10 am to sunset at waterfalls in Zimbabwe. You can go later, anyway, and stay less time, since the light is better in the afternoon.
and after 12.00 or 14.00, depending on lookouts, you can see wonderful raimbows.
I spent on Zambian side just a couple of hours, from 10.00 to 12.00