MAWLAMYINE – August 8 9 10
Arrive
I stayed in Nyaung Shwe one more day, because of the heavy rains which have isolated the country South of the capital. My initial idea was to go directly from Nyaungshwe to Bago, but I eventually decide to head to Yangon, which is recovering from floods, with a night bus, and from there to Mawlamyine, safe and dry. Myanmar gives me the idea of being the classic place where you risk to get stuck for days, and I’d rather not to risk that. A pick-up takes me directly from the NK Villa, and takes me to the Taunggy terminal. At 18.30, I find myself on a comfortable and spacious reclining seat on a vip Shwe Nan Taw bus. On board they provide prepackaged sandwiches and drinks, but on the way we stop along the way, at a local restaurant, for the rite of drivers’ dinner, and where everybody takes the opportunity to tuck in again.
We arrive at about 6.30 in the enormous Aung Mingalar station in Yangon. Two squares, from what I can see, but could be more, and hundreds of buses. Finding the one to Mawlamyine would be like to find a needle in a haystack, so I ask for some help, and reward with 500 MMK the pious guy who comes to rescue me.
The bus, an ordinary suburban with air conditioning, leaves at 8.00 and arrives to destinations at 13.00 (6000 MMK). A mototaxi takes me to the city, on the waterfront, for 1000 MMK
Sleep
On the bus I got an overview of what the city has to offer, regarding overnight stays, and I focus on the Breeze Guesthouse, cheap, seafront, and not too far from little more expensive alternatives. The building, although in a good position, is rather shabby. They show me some dark and damp poky little rooms, (18 USD) along a dark corridor. I think at the cockroaches: no, it’s not ok. Then we go up to the top floor, from a long balcony it opens a magnificent panorama, and the breeze blows away the musty and damp smell. They show me a microscopic room with filthy carpet and two windows with a gorgeous view, 12 USD. Noticing my hesitation, they offer me a discount. I head to Sandalwood. Slightly more expensive, but much much better.
The beds are soft, have decent mattress, and good smell. They could avoid tiling all the walls in white like a hospital, but at least it’s clean. 22.5 USD with breakfast. At the reception there is a smiling, friendly, and knowledgeable employee who speaks beautiful English. The clientele is made up of Asian workers and flashpackers
Eat
The first night, Saturday, following the advice of the efficient receptionist I go on the seafront, where they set up hundreds of tables, booths, and a big screen that broadcasts English soccer games. It seems that all Mawlamyine is there, small groups of men, families, children. They eat fish, specialties such tripe and various offal, and then the classic fried rice and soups.
The turnover is impressive, the chefs work tirelessly, waiters take orders, and perform in daring acrobatics when serving dishes very quickly. My fried rice costs 1500 MMK
At Grandmother & Grandfather, attended by locals and foreigners, with 2000 MMK I eat a soup of Chinese noodles. The view is beautiful, the outdoor tables give the impression of being on the sea, and the breeze gives relief from the heat
The Daw Yoe Restaurant, recommended by the receptionist and the Lonely Planet guide, is a little disappointment. Greasy and heavy Burmese curry
Impressions
Like all the places that have literary references, and have hosted writers, Mawlamyine had initially intrigued me, even if I had to exclude it from the itinerary for time reasons. The repechage of the city where Kipling and Orwell lived, is due to the fact it escaped the typhoons, while Bago was still flooded and isolated. Also because of the return of good weather, I have been favorably impressed. The Mahamuni Paya and Kyaikthanlan Paya, even if not at same level as Shwedagon, redeem when considering the views offered. The panoramas I enjoyed from the top are the best in Myanmar : Islands on the sparkling sea, golden pagodas on sugar loaf rocks covered with lush vegetation. In addition to that, a very easy interaction with the locals, even monks, who come there to practice English. The interiors of the Mahamuni Paya are spectacular, it’s like being in a casket : a kaleidoscope, a blaze of mirrors and precious stones that are reflected everywhere like thousands of little suns and stars. As night falls, then, the atmosphere becomes truly magical, the wide basement and the halls are crowded with devotees who are busy with their rituals of offering and prayer. Maybe here I have fully lived the feelings that I missed instead in Yangon
In addition to is, it is very easy to interact with locals, even monks, who approach to practice English
The interiors of Mahamuni Paya are spectacular, it seems to be in a casket, a kaleidoscope, a sparkle of mirrors and precious stones that are reflected like thousands of little suns and stars.
At nightfall, then, the atmosphere becomes truly magical, the great base and the rooms are crowded with devotees intent on their rituals of offering and prayer. Perhaps here I fully experienced the feelings I missed in Yangon instead
It nice to walk along the promenade, there are some colonial buildings a bit shabby but fascinating. What a wonderful sunsets!
Excursions
HPA AN – BUS
Because of the rains, and being afraid to be blocked, I did not dedicate to Hpa An the time it deserves, at least 2 or 3 days. Taking advantage of the clear skies, I preferred the day trip, after having discovered that it is connected to Mawlamyine by quite a few public buses. Departure at 8.45 by scruffy bus that reminds me about the one I took in Hsipaw, now a lifetime ago, 1000 MMK.
The two-hour journey, despite the ramshackle and uncomfortable seats, is very light to bear. The street is lined with extraordinary views, perhaps the most beautiful seen, magnificent limestone cliffs covered with thicket, an explosive vegetation, cream clouds and patches of blue sky reflected in the still partially flooded plains
Unfortunately, time is running out. I agree with a mototaxi (7000 MMK) a quick visit to the two major attractions, Mount Zwegabin and Kyauk Kalap, leaving out the famous Saddan Caves which are still flooded.
The staircase which gives access to the monastery on top of the Zwegabin lies at Lumbini Garden, where my taxi driver is waiting. The pale sun has again given way to a British style drizzle, very delicate, and there is nobody around. Scattered in the park a thousand Buddha statues, and a lovely pond. The initial idea was to arrive a day earlier and sleep at the monastery, now unfortunately the only thing I have left to do is a short ascent of the steep and slippery steps, for some pictures
The sun comes back at around 13.00, when we reach Kyauk Kalap, a pagoda balanced on a thin cliff. At the base, a small monastery, closed for prayers and meditation from 12.00 to 13.00. Perfect timing, therefore 🙂 I do not take profit, but I read that the monks offer vegetarian meals to visitors. It’s possible to wander among the small blocks of buildings which house the monks. The views are amazing, again, among the best of the trip
Eat
After a quick raid in the only European standard supermarket I’ve ever seen in Myanmar, Phoe Lamin, where I buy various types of junk food for lunch, I reluctantly leave the beautiful town around 14.30, again with price 1000 MMK. There are buses up to 16.00, apparently, but, although I would like to stay here for long time, I’d rather not risk.
Advice
Reading other travel stories on the web, I rarely see Hpa An mentioned. Instead, I really recommend to include it in the itineraries, because it’s really worth
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Bus to Kyaikto at 9.20 (7000 MMK)