KALAW July 29 30 31
Transport
To move from Bagan to Kalaw I choose a day minivan (15000 MMK), Minn Thar Express is the Company, which leaves at around 8.30, after picking up all the passengers from the various hotels, and gets at destination at 15.00. I thought it was faster than the bus but I was wrong . We puncture a tyre, then stop for about 45 minutes for the usual lunch stop of the drivers, who, however, eat (I think for free) and presumably pocket a bribe in a restaurant with a very expensive menu which has all the appearance to stay there to rip off the tourists. I always shy away disdainfully from this kind of shenanigans, so I buy fruit at the market, and I take the opportunity to change money in the bank at a favorable rate, being this city very little touristic. (I think it could be Meitkila, but I am not sure)
From Kalaw to Inle (Shwenyaung) I opt for the train. When I ask railway timetables in reception at the hotel the girls look at me as if my problem was to build a spaceship. So, I go to the station, where I find out that it is not possible to book in advance, and tickets can be bought only one hour before departure. Regarding details and pictures pictures look here (Inle Lake)
Sleep
I comb some hotels located on the main road where the minibus leaves me. All seem to follow the same philosophy in pricing their rooms : cheap ones (but not too much, since in any case the minimum is 15 USD), gloomy, damp, at the cellar floor. Then, various levels with window at the ground floor, at 20/25 USD. Winner is the cheapest of all, but the rooms are not that good, then Pine Land Hill and New Shine, pretty, about 25 USD. I arrive at Honey Pine, same story. As they see me determined to leave, they drop to 20. I accept. They give me a room on the ground floor, very bright, but I do not like it because it is right next to the reception. I try to say I want a high floor, but firmly I am told that for 20 USD is the best I can get
Since in the bathroom, though immaculately clean, I find a big cockroach, I decide to move the next day to Seint Hotel, where for the same price I get breakfast, and a gracious room on the second floor, with large windows, and even a balcony, which it is one of the peculiarities that I appreciate most (for laundry).
The girls at the reception are so nice, and they welcome me with a good orange juice, but they are not able to provide tourist information. I ask them about trains and they look at me as if I was a martian. They do not have maps, they do not have anything. I decide it’s better not to organize trekking with them.
The nicest hotel in town is the Dream Villa, a truly elightful house, however the rooms cost double than Seint.
Eat
Less choice than Hsipaw. I recommend the Poe Poe Bakery which sells various types of sweets. I eat my meals always at Everest, a Nepalese restaurant. It does not seem real to me that I can binge with fragrant Indian curry, a thousand times better than the Burmese one, greasy and heavy. Average of 3700 MMK for a dhal curry, rice, chapati. My beloved honey lemon ginger here costs 1000 MMK.
The Seint Hotel restaurant prepares excellent breakfasts, delicious pancakes with honey, but for the rest of the day is desolately empty. On the last night it rains, and I have to stop there for dinner, because I do not feel getting wet again. Already I fear some intestinal disaster, the one I had in Bagan is in the healing process, and I would not get intoxicated again. They make me wait a lifetime, but the dish I choose, chopped meat with basil, chili and rice is really good, and causes me no sickness.
Impressions
The uphill road which climbs to get to Kalaw is beautiful. The town is nestled between pine trees and valleys in a wonderful position, a landscape that looks like alpine. Already with the grey sky is a pleasure to walk on dirt roads that branch off from the main one. With the clear sky and sun should be really nice. Definitely, I think Kalaw it’s much more interesting than Hsipaw
Trek
Due to the inefficiency of Seint Hotel, I book the trek at Sam’s, one of the most popular agencies in the city. I have not much time available, and so I arrange for a day tour, instead of the 3 days one which takes to the Inle Lake. After verifying that the group planned for the next day is composed of twenty-something guys, I decide to pay a little more (8 USD instead of 13), to have a guide all to myself
From the little that I can see, the Kalaw trekking seems more scenic than the one in Hsipaw. In any case, the comparison is on an equal basis, because on both occasions the rain pours plentyful. It is just a matter of a couple of dollars, but I would recommend to check, in case of daily trip, if lunch is included or not, because I had to pay for it as an addition. The circuit I think is of 13/14 km, but with muddy ground it seems longer. The rain thanks God has not been continuous, but it’s still an annoyance. Walking on the edge of the paths, the ground under my feet is pretty firm, but some parts are composed exclusively of mud and puddles that I try to pass hopping, but I still get bogged down to the ankles
Moreover, still having intestinal problems, sometimes I am obliged to find secluded places, always hoping that nobody arrives meanwhile…. After about 3 hours of walking we reach a village where they are celebrating a kind of festival, and all the people are gathered at the temple
Thanks to the guide I can communicate. Women and children are curious and open, the men limit themselves to eye me from the distance. I ask to some ladies if I can take some pictures. When I show them the result, they laugh, and they say they have never been photographed before. It seems a bit strange, since the village is constantly beaten by tourists
By lunch time we reach a magnificent viewpoint, where we are served lunch. Indian curry, lentils, chapati, delicious mangoes. This seem to be a popular lunch stop for all groups, there are girls who continue till the Inle Lake, and a small group of young people who are on day trip, like me. We’re all covered with mud up to the knees, except a French couple with immaculate beige colonial pants and spotless leather mocassins. Intrigued by their appearance, I start conversation with them, to find out that the viewpoint is easily accessible by car !!!!
On the way back we follow a different path, so the positive side is that even in only one day I can see various landscapes. We leave the main road and we venture in a forest, then we coast a lake along a steep slope; not to slip and sink into the slimy ground I have literally to jump from each emerging root to the other one
We reach a vast expanse of paddy fields, and we go beyond advancing on thin bounding paths
We cross streams keeping us balanced on tree trunks, I honorably overcome the obstacles until the last hurdle where I exhibit myself in a very bad show, I loose stability and fall in water. We come back to Kalaw welcomed by a warm sun, it seems a joke ..