HSIPAW JULY 21 22 23 25
Transport
The first lesson that I learn on this trip is that Burma is not like last year in Sri Lanka, when I was able to go virtually everywhere at almost every hour of the day anytime I went down into the street. From Mandalay to Hsipaw the departures of the only two more comfortable coaches are set at 5.30 and 6.00. What I find in front of myself at 6.50 in a desolately empty Pyi Gyi Myat Shin terminal is a crock whose departure is scheduled at 7.00. (4500 MMK). Perhaps one of the worst ever taken, the floor is completely covered with bags of stuff, you have to step on to get up, get down, and of course reach your seat. The bottom, up to half of the vehicle length, is completely packed with goods
It leaves on time, the ride is less worse than expected, just a little slower, but not too much, compared to the more expensive and decent buses. We stop in Pyin Oo Lwin, for about 20 minutes.
The ramshackle vehicle leaves me in the Hsipaw center, near the market, while the “normal” ones usually stop on the main Lasho-Mandalay road, near the Baptist church
To leave the city, in the direction of Bagan, I get smart and ask info before. Full story here
Sleep
One of the Burmese passengers on the bus recommends the Northern Land Hotel, located very close to our stop. It’s brand new. They show me a really nice room for 22 USD. Looking at the Lonely Planet map I realize to be close to Lily, and I head there. They submit to my attention one of their rooms in the main building, 20 USD, slightly lower quality than Northern Land, but I decisive step towards the adjacent older building, where the cheapest accommodations are 8 USD. The shared bathrooms are very clean and seem recently refurbished. The only free single left is the A2, on the ground floor, right next to the entrance. It’s really tiny, and everybody passes in front of the only window, which I keep still open to ventilate. In any case, it’s just a matter of sleeping there one night. After the trekking I’ll grab the A5, which I think is the best, second and top floor, with a balcony. Strongly recommended
The hotel owners, generous in providing information, after check-in gives me a photocopied map. A modern elevator takes me to the top floor, which houses a clean and marble tiled restaurant. The view from the terrace is wonderful.
The breakfast, included in the price, is perhaps the best of the whole holiday. Buffet style, tea, coffee, juice, water, pancakes, toast, jam, fried rice, eggs, noodles, a marvel.
They rent bicycles, I think 1 USD
Eat
Near the Charle’s Guesthouse there are several bars, I pay 1000 MMK a hearty fruit smoothie
The restaurants I tried are Mr Food, Chinese food, average food 2000 MMK, San, also specialized in grill, slightly more expensive, 2600 MMK for chicken rolls, very tasty and nicely presented on a bed of vegetables cut into julienne
and then the vegetarian restaurant in front of San, 1500 MMK for a fried rice. Food stalls along the Thazin Street cook various types of instant noodles (700 MMK)
Trekking
It’s the main reason to go to Hsipaw. If you stay out at night, you bring only a small hand luggage, while the rest is kept at the hotel. Cost is about 25000 MMK per person. This includes meals, but not water, which be bought on the way (500 MMK, instead of the 300 it costs in the city). It’s essential to bring a flashlight, a towel, and I would say a sheet sleeping bag.
The groups usually consist in about 4/5 people. During the night they are hosted in the guide’s home, in a village on the hills around Hsipaw. This is not a real mountain trekking, but rather a walk through small villages and verdant hills
You see how the locals live, the real contact possibilities depend on the desire to interact, and on the guide, of course, who translates. The experience can be very rewarding, but maybe not, it depends. Me and another girl in the group offered to help in the kitchen or everything else they could need. The ladies of the house told us that we were guests, we should not be disturbed, etc. etc.. They showed us their larder, and how they grind cereals, etc. but our impression is that they have the idea that all foreigners wants to be served like in a hotel, and I was sorry about that, because, in my opinion, it should be an experience about “sharing” . An interesting speech that I had with the guide was about the way we tourists are “judged” by these ethnic minorities. He explained that, with a lot of patience, he managed to convince, especially the most curious women, that we are not all filthy rich as Kazakh oilmen. It is obvious that the level of life is completely different, but they are now aware of the fact that most Westerners have to work hard and save to afford the luxury of a travel. Other groups instead managed to converge speech on the politics topic
The houses have no running water. The bathroom is a bamboo hut with a hole dug in the ground, there is a tap for washing, and a cup to draw water. The sleeping is on foam mattresses, directly on the floor. My village is Htang Sang
for lunch instead we stop at Pham Kham, under a heavy rain
We eat local food, simple but edible, rice and vegetables
The experience is positive, despite some “cons”, at least during the monsoon season.
During this season the trails are filled with mud, streams more or less tumultuous run alongside, the water flow can change abruptly and these sudden changes are really frightening. It’s easy to slip in the few but very steep sections. It is tiring to walk in torrential rain, seeing little or nothing of what’s around, just watch where you put your feet to avoid being stuck in the mire. Another warning for those who are in their mid 40’s and beyond. Check carefully the age of the other members, because if you get in the midst of athletic guys in their twenties, it will be tough to keep them behind
Would I do it again? In hindsight, yes. Asking myself the same question while I plodded with soggy shoes and fogged glasses, I was not so sure
In general
Perhaps my judgment on Hsipaw is a little affected by poor weather conditions at the time of my stay. The main bridge collapsed, causing casualties
It is definitely a pleasant town, with hotels and restaurants for all budgets and interesting excursions by foot or by bicycle, villages inhabited by ethnic minorities, temples, scenic spots, where, due to lack of time or because of the rain I have not been able to go
I have only seen from the outside the Shan Palace, a villa, more than the palace, but there is a very interesting story behind it, which is definitely worth to deepen, if you have the opportunity to spend time with the hosts.
Pleasant, even in the rain, is the so-called Little Bagan, a cluster of small stupas just outside the city center
