FLORES AND TIKAL
Transportation
From Rio Dulce: Fuente del Norte bus, leaves at 11.30, 65 GTQ, other departure times are 9.30 and 10.30. Alternative companies: Linea Dorada (12.30 and 16.30) and Maya Ora (13.30 and 15.30). Please consider that Rio Dulce in some cases is not the starting point, so, at least concerning the bus I caught, it was probably arriving from Guatemala City, it was packed, no passengers got off, so at least for an hour I stood up in the aisle. Travel agents sell tickets regardless of available seats.
Let’s now talk for a moment about the touts mentioned in the Tripadvisor forums. These guys board the bus once arrived in Santa Elena, and try to convince foreigners to get on a free shuttle to Flores island, and then forcing them to buy excursions or other not required services.
Well, it happened to me as well. Here are some tips on how to deal with the situation. Premise: Flores is the part of the city that rises on the island, Santa Elena is the portion located instead on the mainland. An isthmus connects them. First of all, it’s true when they tell you that the buses do not reach Flores. The bus (as happened to our Fuente del Norte) will stop in the dirt road facing a hotel, in front of you will have a crossroads and a traffic light. On the right, a yellow wall with marvelous murals, and the headquarters of the San Jual Travels. Turning left at the traffic light the isthmus connecting Santa Elena to Flores begins. It is enough then to walk it, and you will be safe. But if you stay on the shuttle, at least for what my experience is worth, nobody will try to sell anything. If they do, you are not obliged to buy anything. To get them out of my way, I invented a random hotel. When we got there, I went down and left. They tried to call me, but I did not even turn around and went on my way. Nobody followed me.
To Chetumal: 225 GTQ direct minibus, San Juan Travels Company. The competitor is Marlin Espadas, whose tickets can be purchased at the Green Monkey Hostel agency, in front of the Hotel Ramada in Flores. Marlin Espadas uses real buses, but in Chetumal they have a separate terminal, from which a taxi ride is necessary to get to the main ADO terminal. San Juan Travels does have a good reputation, but I have to admit that, perhaps because I was expecting the worst, it did not go too badly. Prices: at the main office I was initially asked 275 GTQ, which is the official price, in another travel agency I got some discount without even insisting too much.
The minivan did not have air conditioning, and no sunshades. It was not the best, since that day the sun was really strong. The crossings at the two customs were simple. Leaving Guatemala, at Melchor de Mencos, I paid 20 GTQ. On the other side, Benque Viejo, Belize, long queues, little shade, and only one open desk. After the border crossing procedures, some passengers left. We then proceeded straight to the north, without passing through Belize City. 11 USD for Belize transit, paid when leaving the country, just before Chetumal. No tax for entry to Mexico. At 16.30 we were at the ADO terminal in Chetumal. The passage from Guatemala to Mexico was a cultural shock. The difference in infrastructure, just to mention one, is incredible.
Sleep
Hotel Green World, 150 GTQ, located lake front. The rooms are nice, but every time I took a shower the water seeped into the bathroom through the tiles that formed a small wall around its perimeter, and poured into the room. Very kindly, the reception girls sent someone to dry with a rag.
I was too lazy and did not feel like changing my room, but, nearby, the Aurora Hotel has nice rooms at 130 GTQ
Eat
On the lakeside, in front of my hotel, starting at 18.00 some ladies put on stalls and sell various types of food, drinks and desserts. I tried vegetarian tamales, 5 GTQ, and platanos with beans, 5 GTQ. I then discovered a small bar run by gentle ladies, “Natural”, very clean, which prepares sandwiches and quesadillas at 15/20 GTQ, and very refreshing fruit/vegetable juices (eg carrot, orange, ginger), at 20 GTQ. It can be recognized because of its brightly painted walls.
I then had dinner one evening at Restaurante Mirador, in the Central Plaza, a vegetarian omelette and a tea for 35 GTQ, but nothing special.
Excursions
San Miguel, 10 GTQ return by boat. I just approached the piers in the northern part of the lake, near the isthmus. The village is quite pretty, there are also some guesthouses. From the banks you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city of Flores.
With a short walk you can reach the small archaeological site of Tayazal, completely in ruins and not restored. Then there are some beaches, but I have not seen them.
Tikal archelogical site 60 GTQ (purchased through a travel agent, since at the hotel it costs more) for transport only. Admission is excluded, and can be bought for 150 GTQ at the park entrance.
It is possible to return to Flores with any shuttle from the same agency.
Impressions
Flores is a pretty and relaxing city, with brightly painted houses and a beautiful lakefront. Very cute is also the central square, in a high position compared to the banks. Possibility to eat and sleep for all budgets.
More than any other Mayan site, Tikal impressed me with its grandeur, there are infact many high, impressive and majestic pyramids. Perhaps because of the presence of the howler monkeys, absent from Chichen Itza, I felt even more immersed and overwhelmed by the greatness of the surrounding nature. The site is very extensive, and, excluding the path that leads to the central part, it is very easy to meet few visitors in the various routes that branch off to the most remote spots. In some situations I felt so lonely that I even doubted to be lost, and I prayed to be able to reach someone to be sure I was on the right track. It is possible to hear the sounds of the howler monkeys even during the day, in some slightly defiled areas. Another very crowded space is the north pyramid. Despite the discreet flow of people, I spent a lot of time sitting, watching the view, and enjoying the breeze.
Visitors can take with them backpacks, water and food. In fact, there are several areas suitable for picnics, with benches and verandas, and even toilets. I was quite suffering because of the heat, a bit because I wore long pants to protect myself from the bites of mosquitoes and other insects, and a bit because of the weight of my backpack during the climbing.