Under Botswana sky

CHANGE (updated July 2016)

Botswana’s currency is the Pula (BWP)

1 BWP = 0.0830 Euro – 1 Euro = 11725 BWP

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EXPENSES IN EURO

Botswana is not a cheap country, this is written anywhere on the web, and certainly I did not expect to be able to do miracles. The problem is that, despite having avoided the overpriced lodge of the Inner Delta, and almost all restaurants, since cooking can be done anywhere in the common kitchens available in the various accomodations where I’ve been, I still spent much nutshell. The safaris, even the very basic ones, are extra-expensive.

Food: 587.15 BWP (48.73 Eu)

Transportation: 458.5 BWP (38.05 Eu). I just point out the most significant expenses: 170 BWP bus from Gaborone to Maun, 90 BWP taxi from airport to Gaborone centre, 50 BWP taxi from Kasane to Zimbabwe border (to Victoria Falls).

Accomodation: 1865 BWP (154.79 Eu). In detail: 320 BWP Brackendene Lodge Gaborone, 225 BWP single tent Old Bridge Backpackers Maun, 850 BWP Old House Kasane (breakfast included)

Excursions: 10350 BWP (859 Eu). In detail: 2 days / 1 night mokoro safari 1800 BWP, 5 days / 4 nights Moremi + Savuti 8100 BWP, Zambezi cruise 450 BWP

Mobile: 110 BWP (9.13 Eu)

Total: 13370.65 BWP (1108 Eu)

My journey continued then to Victoria Falls and Namibia. Taking into account only of the days spent in Botswana (10), and adding the cost of the flight (453 Eu) the total gets to 1561 Eu, which is not so bad, considering the destination, and the fact I was traveling alone. 

FLIGHTS

Ethiopian Aiways, 453 Euro. Departure 07/20/16 from Milan to Gaborone, return 08/14/16 from Johannesburg to Milan. I waiting for a couple of hours in Addis Ababa, on both occasions. The airport is being renovated, and appears quite confusing. A few chairs, huge flow of passengers. However, there are several shops to visit, and if you have also brought something to read, time passes very quickly.

INTERNAL TRANSPORT

Ordinary buses connect only a few major cities. Very difficult to find info online, because tourists travel almost all with rented vehicles, or with tour operators. For the route Gaborone – Maun I used Monnakgotla Bus Company, the only one I found on internet. The fastest and the most expensive. Once arrived at the Gaborone bus terminal I discovered the existence of other companies, Khata Express and Seabelo Express. I should have gone the day before departure, and take information. But unfortunately, no time

http://www.monnakgotla.co.bw/transport.html

The locals people are also using the combi, minivans used as collective taxis, which are the best if one has no big luggage. I relied on them in Maun for short trips. Cost: taxi from Maun center to Old Bridge Backpackers 30 BWP, combi 3.5 BWP

CLIMATE / RECOMMENDED CLOTHING

Perfect temperature during the day, big thermal excursion in the night. For tented safaris in fully open 4WD jeeps, warm clothes and a winter sleeping bag are essential (mine had comfort limit at -2°C). From 11.00 to sunset I was wearing a Tshirt, but already at dinner I had to wear a light winter jacket (bought at Decathlon) and a fleece. In the morning I added also a thermal underwear, and a blanket provided by the driver. Footwear: since it does not rain, there is no need to bring Goretex or waterproof shoes,

ACCOMMODATIONS

Guesthouses in Gaborone and Kasane, and then tents.

Gaborone – Brackendene Lodge – 320 BWP a room with bathroom in the guesthouse located on the opposite side of the street from the lodge. Excellent position. Central and close to supermarkets. Kitchen available

Maun – Old Bridge Backpackers – single tent 225 BWP. It is not even a tent, as roof is made of tin, beds inside. Spotless shared bathrooms. Inadequate kitchen space, too small.

Kasane – Old House – 940 BWP. Chosen for the location : on the river, in the city center, close to supermarkets. Too bad there was not the kitchen. Fantastic breakfast, included in the price. I bought from them the excursion on the Zambezi River (350 BWP + 100 tax).

I camped in remote and unfenced areas, without water or toilets. In one case, (the 2 days / 1 night mokor trip in the Inner Delta), I slept in a tent full of earth, which I tried to sweep away with some tree branches, on a thin foam dirty mattress (my butt was practically on the ground), no pots to cook, not even a chair (I sat on some logs), and no shovel to dig the hole for the bush toilet (I used a stick).

On the contrary, with the safari instead organized by Old Bridge, I could enjoy small but comfortable amenities, beds in the tents, and towels (there was no running water, though, of course)

COMMUNICATIONS

I bought a Mascom sim card. The competitor is Orange, but some people told me Mascom has more coverage, I do not know if it’s true. The wifi signal at Old Bridge and Old House was very weak, so I could not get anything done. Luckily I had the sim.

http://www.mascom.bw/home/web/content/prepaid/Mascom_Prepaid_Plans/Flexi_Call

FOOD

In 10 days I went only a couple of times to the restaurant. In the remaining days, I used to cook my own things, or consumed meals included in the cost of the excursions. Supermarkets sell anything, at prices slightly lower than Italian ones (so expensive). In larger ones there are kinds of deli counters where you can buy take away food. I’m not a guy who very much appreciates meat, but I must admit that here it is particularly good. More than the grilled one, I particularly enjoyed stews, including wild game, like oryx.

SHOPPING

Everything is expensive, so I did not buy anything. Beaded earrings, the typical ones, 20 Eu, are they crazy? I liked the African style tablecloths with stylized animals and geometric doodles, but they costed something like 30 Eu or more. So I gave up. Luckily I could remedy later on in the next destinations

IS IT WORTH TO GO?

This was my third safari trip, after Kenya and South Africa. South Africa is certainly cheaper. The sighting of wildlife, especially cats, predation scenes, interactions between different species, is related to luck. The luck factor which particularly assisted me during the stay at the Masai Mara (cheetahs, leopards, wildebeest chased and eaten by lions) was a little bit vacant in Botswana. Anyway, I still could see quite a few lions

No cheetahs and leopards. However, and this did not happen in Kenya, here in Botswana I could sleep in an unfenced camp, potentially penetrable by any animal. Hearing during the evening or at night the sounds of animals was very exciting. Hearing the lion roar a few steps from the tent at 5.00? Priceles … The downside, as I will write in the next section, is that this is a journey which must be planned in every detail before departure, after it may be too late .

What is the sweetest memory, now, from Botswana? The smell of wild sage. And then this photograph: it is wrong, defective, dark, blurred, yet immensely dear to me, because it captures the essence of the country: sunsets, silence, animals, dust …

ORGANIZATION OF THE TRIP

The sandy and treacherous Botswana tracks are practicable only by jeep, access to some roads is even prohibited to 2WD vehicles.

The jeeps, expensive on-site, are usually hired in South Africa, to save a little bit, but anyway prices are still about 100 Eu per day. This enterprise seemed to me to be beyond my skills, never driven a 4WD with low gears in my life, besides over budget… so I had to rely on pre-organized safari, selected from the Lonely Planet list of economic operators with best reputation.

The various excursions must be booked before departure, then I’ll explain why. I moved with taxis and public buses between the three main centers: Gaborone, where I landed, Maun, the Okavango hub, and Kasane, the Chobe one. In Maun I opted for two different safari. According to what I read on the web the non plus ultra are the islands in the Inner Delta, accessible only by small aircraft, and hosting expensive lodges, from 500 to 2500 USD per day. Since I could not afford these, I focused on the so-called mobile safari. Considering the difficult connection between Maun and Kasane by public transport, I chose a safari which allowed me to get to Kasane without any supplement, organized by Old Bridge Bacpackers, which boasts good reviews. This safari touched the Moremi Game Reserve (2 nights) and then crossed the Chobe National Park (2 nights in Savuti). In Kasane, before leaving to Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls), I purchased on site a cruise on the Zambezi river, in the so-called Chobe riverfront. Being free the first 2/3 days after arrival, I wanted to go with a last minute mokoro trip in the inner delta. I thought it would have been easy, accustomed as I am with traveling in Asia, where I just materialize in the street, and everyone is trying to sell me anything. Instead, I risked not to leave, and I really had a hard time to find something.

Initially I also thought about buying one of those “overland trucks” packages, hypothesis later rejected after having checked the average age of the participants. Rather than a complete  pre-arranged trip, with a single operator, I preferred to purchase many separate packages.

RIP OFF / SAFETY

Gaborone dangerous at night. It is better to avoid to walk alone after dark, even in the city center streets, and take a taxi. Apart this, very relaxed and friendly population. No one tries to sell you anything.

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